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When curating a list of London’s best dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, tucked prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a outlying corner of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the proprietors totally surprised.

“I’m completely shocked,” says the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which started as a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the food, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong slap of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that figure.

A Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at fancy establishments. “I am truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum would be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo beyond its own walls. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater significance of this gastronomic triumph.